PARADISE FOUND

Exploring a constellation of choices in a charming Rocky Mountain burg

Many people find that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity, and that mountains and rivers are meaningful not only as fountains of timber and water, but as fountains of life. Those who come to this special Colorado place rejoice in deep breaths of pure air and the splendor of scenery as graceful and poignant as the very moment it was created.

It’s a little town, this Pagosa Springs, tucked beneath the majestic San Juan Mountains, polished by the San Juan River and nourished by a hot spring thought healing and restorative by Native Americans. It’s white in the winter and green in the summer, following a script of perfect order. Founded in the 1870s as a fort, the town is rich in scenic grandeur, fascinating history, and friendly people.

Only a few stoplights punctuate the town, with its solitary main street ambling from one end to the next. There’s no Walmart or Starbucks or Home Depot, but the bookstore owner offers coffee as you browse the titles, and a movie, popcorn and a drink can still be had without mortgaging the house. There’s a bakery alive with wonderful smells — and it’s not just a corner inside a huge grocery store. The lake is home to migratory birds and ice skaters alike, its denizens changing with the season. And this is a place, truly, where the deer and the antelope play — along with huge herds of magnificent elk.

Sound inviting? Trying to decide when to visit? Well, weather in the Colorado Rockies dictates the flavor of activities year-round, with a plethora of choices each season. So let’s explore a typical year to determine which of these beautiful limes in Pagosa Springs would enrich your life.

A WINTERY WONDERLAND

Pagosa Springs is “pretty in white” during the winter. It’s very Camelot-like, with plenty of snow at the top of Wolf Creek Pass to keep skiers elated, and enough snow in town to put another log on the fire and enjoy a steaming cup of fragrant apple cider (forget about calories - put a dollop of whipped cream on top!).

It took pioneers weeks to traverse Wolf Creek Pass; the wise ones never attempted it during winter. But with today’s automobile, Wolf Creek Ski Area is a mere skip away from Pagosa Springs. The ski area, touted as “Colorado’s most snow,” is found at an elevation of 10,300 feet at the base, with the summit at 11,900 feet. The amenities are comparable to larger ski resorts, with two double lifts, two triple lifts, one quad, and one magic carpet lift. Cross-country courses, a ski school, rentals, and childcare complete the winter wonderland package.

Ice climbing, for the brave and well prepared, can be accomplished at Treasure Falls, just a short 11 miles from town. Need more thrills? Surely ice cave spelunking would suit those in need of an adrenalin rush...

When you’ve finished whooshing and shooshing on the slopes, the all-natural mineral hot springs in town (reportedly the hottest in the world) invite you to soak as you watch the bright stars appear overhead in the clear Colorado skies.

Then it’s off to one of Pagosa Spring’s outstanding restaurants for a hearty dinner and special toddy in front of a roaring fire. If there’s still spring in your step, then a spin around the dance floor may just be in order.

Perhaps Pagosa Springs is the gathering place for your family during the holidays. Away from the hustle and bustle of city life, the kids turn off the television and video games, and settle in for a game of Scrabble with grandparents. Many of the town’s hotels have indoor swimming pools, so the family can cavort in the pool before tromping outside and finding just the right spot to make angels in the snow. Be sure to include the celebration “Winterfest” in your winter plans; it features snow sculpture, ice hockey, sledding events, and skiing competitions.

For a unique family treat, how does dog sledding sound? Cancel the trip to Alaska — it’s all right here! Handsome Huskies power the sleds, and you “mush” through the countryside as the dogs pull in their harnesses and bark in pure enjoyment. This could be the one journey that family members talk about for years to come.

SPRING IS BUSTIN’ OUT ALL OVER!

Springtime in the Rockies — it doesn’t get much better than this!

Wildflowers dot the hillsides, poking up amid acres of lush green fields and meadows. Snow is but a memory. Put the skis away and pack up your fleece-lined boots.

The ranchers in the area are starting to move their livestock herds to take advantage of the new grass; you’ll begin to see more ranch trucks in town, temporary homes to cow dogs sporting their red kerchief collars. The jingle­-jangle-jingle of spurs on wooden sidewalks probably means there’s a horse trailer at the curb, with good ranch horses saddled up inside, ready to do their job. Cowboys still tip their Stetsons and say “howdy.” And no, it’s not a movie set - this is for real. This is a way of life here in Pagosa.

Maybe today’s the day you wander over to one of the miniature golf courses in town. Or maybe just a walk around the lake seems more appropriate on this beautiful day.

Interested in mining lore? Check out the gold mine tours in Creede (about a two-hour drive). Gold fever is contagious, so be prepared to grab a pan and try your hand at finding that big mother lode.

Museums are a treasure chest of cultural and geographical history. The San Juan Historical Museum in town tells of the diversity of the area and its inhabitants. This museum is close to the bakery, so schedule an extra 20 minutes or so to sit on the deck and have a pastry with your coffee.

Remember the “sounds of yesteryear” and how as kids we all hankered to be heroes, drawing our six-guns on the bad guys and then riding off into the sunset at a full gallop? The Fred Harman Museum on the western edge of town, dedicated to the creator of Red Ryder and Little Beaver, will bring back all those memories. This rustic museum houses rodeo, movie and western memorabilia, and the hosts are wonderfully charming.

Interested in Native American history? The museum at Mesa Verde tells of their culture and influence, and a short walk will allow you to explore some of the cliff dwellings of the ancient Anasazi tribe. Chimney Rock, between Pagosa and Durango, is an amazing place to explore ancestral Puebloan ruins from mid-May to the end of September.

One of the great things about Pagosa Springs is that it’s central to so much recreation. You don’t have to move from town to town —just stay in Pagosa and let it be the “hub” to your “spokes” of exploration. Day trips are easy — you don’t have to pack, unpack, and hunt for another hotel and hope there’s a vacancy. For instance, if this morning your choice is to get out in nature and go fishing, kayaking, boating or hiking, then throw a dart at the map and venture out to Echo Lake State Park, Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park, Crater Lake or Navajo State Park. Perhaps you could pack a picnic lunch and a camera with extra film and head out to one (or several) of the nearby 25 waterfalls, all resplendent with force and beauty as the snowmelt adds to their velocity and volume.

Vintage 1882 rail cars on the Durango-Silverton Railroad chug up the mountain as they take you to a spectacular, remote area and then down again to the quaint town of Durango, where shopping and exploring art galleries are great sport. If you still haven’t gotten your fill of rail travel from this expedition, then wander over to Chama (southeast of Pagosa) to the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad. This rail travel across the Continental Divide is aboard North America’s longest and highest narrow gauge steam train.

For you golf aficionados, the grass may still be greening up from winter, but there are 27 holes calling you. Before you putt, take a moment to marvel at the birds overhead as they migrate in the patterns so ingrained in them, and at the mountain range spiking majestically around two sides of the valley.

SUMMERTIME, AND THE LIVIN’ IS EASY

Shhhh, poooof, shhhhhhh — what is that? And why are all those people gathered in the parking lot, especially at this hour of the morning? A moment later the answers come clear: It’s hot air balloons! Transforming from one dimension to three in a few short minutes, these colorful huge icons of peaceful travel come alive in Pagosa Springs. And guess what —you could be one of the passengers! How better to view the San Juan Mountains, its wildlife, diverse landscape, wondrous architecture...

It’s summer, and there are no boundaries. The weather is perfect and all the roads are open. It’s time for rodeos and barbecues, county fairs and parades, windsurfing and boating, craft shows and art exhibits. Take the self-guided historical tour of Pagosa Springs, the river walk, or trek along the nature trails found right in town.

A short drive to the neighboring town of Ignacio wanders through farmland and past Indian ruins. Ignacio is home to Sky Ute Casino, where you can plunk a roll of nickels in a slot machine and have a light lunch.

What self-respecting small town would be without a Fourth of July celebration? Certainly not this one! Pagosa Springs on the Fourth of July is resplendent with a parade, carnival rides, games, an arts and crafts festival, and a rodeo. And of course, fireworks!

Perhaps you’d like to head out for a day on horseback. Mount up, cowgirls and cowboys — put your feet in those stirrups and listen to the squeak of the saddle leather as you clip clop along. Picture what the area was like when Native Americans gathered here to hunt and fish, long before Pagosa Springs became a fort in the 1870s and wars erupted over ownership of the springs. Watch for fox and deer and elk and eagles — your horse will let you know when something is in the brush or overhead. And be sure to give your equine partner a friendly rub and a carrot when your horseback trek is over. Don’t want to sit astride? How about a wagon ride, pulled by handsome Clydesdale horses, to a spot where a campfire, horseshoe pit, volleyball, dinner and a marshmallow roast await you?

Music draws people from around the globe to Pagosa Springs in the summer, when concerts featuring world-renowned musicians are held outdoors, with the pristine Colorado skies overhead forming a besparkled ceiling for the event.

For those who enjoy authentic re-enactments, the Mountain Man Rendezvous invites you to step back in time and observe how the pioneers lived. Be sure to duck when the hatchet-throwing contest begins.

THE KALEIDOSCOPE OF AUTUMN

Remember when burnt umber was your favorite color in the Crayola box? That color - and thousands more — are duplicated in the ever-changing panorama of fall in the mountains. The quaking aspens take center stage as they metamorphosize from green and silver to shades of red and yellow and burnt umber. Bring your oil paints or camera, for surely you’ll want to capture this splendor in some form that lingers. Celebrate the changing of colors by taking a self-guided vehicle tour, organized every third weekend of the fall months.

One way to view this kaleidoscope is to soar above it — literally. Soaring in a glider (Val-Air Gliderport, north of Durango) will give you wings! Quiet weightless freedom to travel above the earth awaits you.

Be sure to put the Hot Air Balloon ColorFest on your September calendar, when huge numbers of these colorful orbs ascend from downtown Pagosa Springs. Bring your binoculars and hop aboard!

Does merely the thought of German sausage make your mouth water? Then Oktoberfest at the Community Center is for you, complete with an evening of eating, dancing and entertainment. And Folk Fest on Labor Day weekend, hosted on Reservoir Hill above the town, will keep your toes tapping and your hands clapping.

It smells different in the fall, doesn’t it, with piles of leaves burning and spires of wood smoke coming from chimneys not recently used. The twigs snap under your feet as you take that last hike before winter, and you watch in wonder as the animals and birds store up for yet another change in season. You linger in front of restaurant and lounge fireplaces, warming yourself before dinner or lunch. A harbinger of what is to come, a dusting of white appears on the far-off mountain tops.

The seasons in Pagosa have come full circle, rewarding us with a myriad of smells and sights and tastes and sounds. You’ve met great people and seen such splendor, oh my, and experienced such remarkable journeys.

Pagosa Springs. What a good place, a grand place, to be.

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